Architecture tour #1: old vs. new in Vienna’s city center - Vienna Würstelstand

The English speaking magazine. Making the most out of Vienna and life.

Architecture tour #1: old vs. new in Vienna’s city center

1. Mirroring Structures

Stephansdom vs. Haas Haus

Old: Start your journey at Vienna’s main square, and the so called heart of city, Stephansplatz. This is also home to… you guessed it… one of the world’s most famous gothic churches in Europe, Stephansdom. The cathedral is never seen without scaffolding, for its limestone façade is in constant need of repair.

New: In stark contrast to the iconic Stephansdom sits across the square, the 1980s Haas Haus. Designed by Hans Hollein, this building was met with resistance by a majority of locals. Many argued that it detracted from the beauty of Stephansdom, but today most agree that its mirrored façade allows us to view the cathedral from a different perspective.

 

2. The subtle beauty of the boutiques

Hollein’s miniature masterpieces

Stroll along the historic Graben and Kohlmarkt. Keep your eyes peeled for Hollein’s architectural gems hidden within the string of 21st century chain store’s facades. Firstly, notice the funky Tabak Trafik on the corner of the Haas Haus, its golden tobacco leaf framing the shop’s entrance. Continue past the Frick bookstore to the Schullin jewellery shop. Here, be sure to notice the slit in the black façade dragging the bejewelled gold interior to the public exterior.

Finally, turn left onto Kohlmarkt, where you’ll encounter yet another Schullin jewellery shop. Notice how the heavy bronze arch sits on two slim timber columns, creating a strong front to a much more delicate interior.

It’s the small things that can be easily lost under the layers of the modern brands, but you should be sure to pay attention to the details on the faces of the shops, that were once well thought through when aesthetics still mattered.

 

3. Ruins and running Loos at Michaelerplatz

Roman ruins vs. Looshaus

Toddle along the Kohlmarkt boulevard until you reach Michaelerplatz, where you will run into excavations of ancient Roman ruins. The historic ruins are framed within Hollein’s circular urban island, nestled within the city’s cobble stone roundabout.

Looking back towards the Graben you will notice the Looshaus, one of Adolf Loos’ masterpieces. It was nicknamed ‘the house without eyebrows’ for its lack of decorative windows and was hugely disliked at the time of its construction. One of its main opponents was the emperor Franz Josef himself, who avoided the building completely and stopped using the Michaelerplatz exit from his palace specifically because of that building. In order to reconcile the situation, Adolf Loos agreed to add decorative flowerpots to the windows to make up for the minimalist façade he had created – what a charmer.

 

4. The crazy, the crazier and the crazed

Heldenplatz vs. Nationalbibliothek

Continue through to the Hofburg palace courtyard and come out of the archway to the square of heroes, i.e. Heldenplatz. Two soldiers on horses sit with pride, in line with the balcony of the national library. In 1938, this balcony was where Hitler held his speech to a massive crowd of supporters to officially announce Austria as a Nazi allegiance. And the two horsemen sculpted here were destroyed in both of their battles. So we’re just going to leave this question mark after the following words there – Hero’s square?

Decades ago, the two horse statues were created – one horse successfully balancing solely on its hind-legs (which is an amazing feat for a sculptor to achieve), with the other less successful. It is often said that the sculptor tried so hard to achieve the same effect on both, that when he unveiled his failed attempt on the opening night, he had to be taken to an asylum. We guess it’s like when we couldn’t get that last piece in the late night Jenga game.

 

5. Where people now laze, horses once grazed

Museumsquartier

Keep going straight ahead, past the facades of the Natur- and Kunsthistorische Museum towards the Museumsquartier (the museums quarter). Upon entering the main courtyard of the Museumsquartier, you will notice it is buzzing with bars, cafes, museums and people lazing about in plastic lego-like chairs, enjoying the sun.

The space acts as the heart of culture, and plays host to some of Vienna’s best museums and events.
Now, close your eyes, and imagine all the modern architectural extensions are gone – you are left with a courtyard.

Now, replace all the people with horses, and the concrete ground with hay and mud – you have arrived at the Museumsquartier’s original form. This very hip and cultural place was once the Emperor’s horse stables. Walk around the place, and you’ll be able to reconstruct the picture in your mind even better.

The map that shall guide you

Get content that you love in your inbox!

#nospam - only the good stuff that makes you smile and helps you make the most out of Vienna...and life!

We’re committed to your privacy. We will use the information you provide to us to contact you about our relevant content and services in the form of a newsletter. For more information, check out our Privacy Policy.