A pocket of the sleepy third district is undergoing a wave of rejuvenation as a raft of stylish cafés and bars move in. The family feel, the urban/industrial grunge of the train tracks make for an attractive mix at the Radetzky quarter – We took a look around this increasingly lively spot in the city and found 7 reasons why you should watch this space.
Let me take you on a tour through my old neighbourhood ...
Where: Radetzkystraße 3, 1030
This sexy little bakery opened its doors last autumn. Situated at the beginning of Radetzkystraße and right in front of the O/1 tram station, it lures in commuters waiting for their tram on their way to work in the morning with the enticing smell of freshly baked bread and pastries. Offering the typical suspects of a Viennese bakery – Briochekipferl, butter and chocolate croissants, a Nussschnecke, a Kornspitz and a Mohnweckerl – they also sell filled sandwiches, cookies, various soft drinks, coffee and tea. If you’re not in a hurry, stay for breakfast and admire the plain, yet elaborate interior.
Coffee to go = 1.50€
Laugenstange = 0.89€
Breakfast = 4.80€
We love … the stylish tiles on the floor and the neat furniture
We appreciated … the sweet baker warning us about the bagel being a little bit too hard to chew this morning
Moving on along the street’s left side heading towards Radetzkyplatz, you will stumble upon a small, invitingly radiant and kicking café. Das Radetzky’s interior bleeds onto the street. The retro furnishing takes you back to the 70ies in Vienna, where you can sit on one of the comfy leather couches, have a Mokka (Espresso) and chat the day away until you find yourself standing at the bar with a beer in hand, lighting a cigarette and chatting up the weird guy next to you munching on chili con carne. This junction between café and bar is something very Viennese, and finding it done in such a tidy, yet ungroomed fashion is refreshing.
Espresso = 2.10€
Beer = 2.80€ (0.3l), 3.70€ (0.5l)
Weißer Spritzer = 2.90€
Vodka/Gin Tonic = 5.20€
Chili Con Carne = 7.90€
We like … the authentic Viennese feeling that is present in this place’s every pore
We recommend … to join them for their 1 year celebration party on February 21, more info here
Best of Portugal
Portuguese food, wine, handicraft and ceramic shop
Where: Radetzkystraße 13, 1030
Mon–Fri: 10am–1:30pm & 2:30pm–6:30pm
Sat: 10am–2pm (only every first Saturday of the month)
Right next to Das Radetzky, this little corner store could almost be considered a veteran of the street. Having opened five years ago, Best of Portugal takes you on a trip far away from Vienna, offering all things Portugal – from wine to olive oil, cheese, pasteis de nata, as well as traditional handcraft gifts. Portugese specialty goods are not easy to find in Vienna.
We like … the oddness of the shop’s windows that invites you to take a closer look
We recommend … their wine tastings, every last Friday of the month, find out more here
Moving on to Radetzkyplatz (Radetzky square). Here you will find a huge open piazza where a number of narrow streets all come together. You’ll hear a train rumbling by now and again aloft the red brick viaduct railway. In summer it’s a green oasis, where all the restaurants residing here spread out with their large beer gardens, making it a great, cosmopolitan spot to sit, eat, drink and enjoy the sounds of the city.
Across from the piazza, Café Menta has become a trendy meeting point for third district-ers since it opened two years ago. In summer, you’ll find guests sitting inside and outside late into the night, enjoying cool drinks and great Mediterranean food. In winter, the place is a great breakfast and brunch haven. The naked walls, the carefully selected furniture, the mix of sleek modern and industrial grunge works well.
Espresso = 2€
Radetzky Breakfast = 7€
Burger oriental = 11.50€
Beer = 3.70€
We love … that on a sunny day, the sun will shine into the café all day long
We can’t wait … for the warm days when they set up tables outside and you can have breakfast in the sun or a drink on warm summer evenings.
For winter ... we recommend trying the Menta tea
Daily: 9am–1am Kitchen: 11:30am–11pm
The center piece of the piazza is the tavern Gasthaus Wild – the oldest of Radetzkyplatz’s pearls. Having withstood the hardest of times - even when the square was empty, grey and uninviting – this restaurant serving traditional Viennese cuisine (slightly fused with a Mediterranean influence) has become an institution during its 13 year life. The place possesses a romantic atmosphere for dinner with its wood-panelled walls, and the wine list will get any connoisseur excited. You can also enjoy a typical Viennese breakfast and Mokka, have a nice lunch while on your break from work or spend a comfy evening being spoiled by high quality Viennese food. Oh, and keep some room for dessert – it’ll be worth it.
Kleiner Brauner = 1.90€
Viennese Breakfast = 2.60€ (2 Semmeln, butter and marmalade)
Fritattensuppe = 3.80€
Pork liver with potatoes = 12.50€
We love … how the old and the new Vienna coming together at this place.
We admire … the cosiness that will capture you and not let go anymore.
Right next to Gasthaus Wild you’ll find the new kid on the block: Garage01. A tapas restaurant with Spanish, Venezuelan and Czech roots, built into one of the arched spaces underneath the railway viaduct. It's dressed in a funky mixture of naked brick walls, homemade wooden furniture, steel surfaces and designer glassware while it carries that irresistable cheeky charm of the Mediterranean. The open kitchen in the middle, the rattling but soothing sound of the trains passing overhead, the contagious calm and charisma of the staff is as delightful as the diverse tapas menu – ranging from Schinkenbrot (bread with ham) to tortillas, feijoadas and other great small portions of Spanish tapas. They also serve a lovely basic and fresh breakfast.
Espresso = 2€
Homemade syrups (with hot water) = 2.20€
Juan’s cocktails: 7.20€
Different breads (cold and warm): 2.50–6.20€
Chorizo, olives or plantain chips: 2.60€
We love … the mixture of people and ideas present at Garage01
We enjoyed … the view onto the restaurant's kitchen from the toilet's wash basin, and the brightness of the place.
Leaving the square and wandering along Löwengasse you’ll discover a load of old-school shops and restaurants that have been there for ages – a stationery shop, a comic book store, an ice cream parlour, Pizzeria Eduardo, or even the supermarket Billa residing inside the former Löwenkino (cinema) from 1921. And, of course, the Hundertwasserhaus still gathers packs of tourists gawking up at its walls. But it’s one little cafe, with a mighty big character that we’re here for.
Almost at the end of the street, wrapped into a cute beige-painted wooden façade, you will find Gedöhns – a tiny restaurant/cafe that’s as fresh and unexpected as an espresso with a hint of strawberry. The owners Wencke and Albert – are a few of the most welcoming and hospitable persons you will find in Vienna, making you not only feel at home immediately, but also like a part of the family. In summer, you’ll often see them sitting out the front in their effortlessly bold style, smoking their cigarettes and chatting with one of the loads of locals they’ve become familiar with.
We love … that you feel at home immediately.
We admire … the love, personality and work they put into creating this great place of comfortable differentness.