Ever since I moved near to Wallensteinplatz in 2011, I thought it would only be a matter of months until the old proletarian Grätzel (neighbourhood) would wake up from its decade long hibernation to get a bit of that gentrified Karmeliter district vibe going. To my surprise, this rebirth hasn’t happened yet. Nevertheless, Brigittenau has a lot to offer to the urbanite, and is well worth the venture out of the inner districts.
Let me take you around and give you 20 reasons why the undiscovered 20th district is the place to be
Brigittenau (the 20th district) is quite big, and in this article I’m only dealing with the Friedensbrücke-Jägerstraße-Augarten delta (see map), because that’s where I enjoyed residing for the past four years. Check out this map to help you find your way:
1. Cheap Rent
Although it borders the expensive district of Alsergrund (9th district), rent prices drop significantly once you cross the Donaukanal into the 20th district. The average rent price in Brigittenau is only 7,71€ per square metre/month while on the other side of the canal a square metre averages 13,45€/month. So think about that you 9th district aristocrats when you’re walking your permed designer dogs along the canal, in your lounge jackets, smoking your pipes and polishing your monocles. (source: www.immopreise.at)
2. It’s well connected
Two underground metro lines (U4 Friedensbrücke and U6 Jägerstraße), and three tramways (5, 31, 33) at the district’s doorstep allows you to travel anywhere you want, superfast. Schwedenplatz and Schottentor are also only about a twenty minute walk away, or an even shorter bike ride.
3. The vibe
Almost half of Brigittenau’s population is made up of immigrants. This has an effect on the general vibe of the neighborhood, which tends to be very relaxed, open and friendly. Take a look at any city and it’s always the multicultural districts where migrants open shop, that organically grow their own attractive vibe and become the trendy place to live.
Stroll around the streets and visit one of the Turkish pastry shops, or drop into the little Balkan hole-in-the-wall place serving up Ćevapi. It feels a little bit like you’re on vacation in the Balkans.
4. Hannovermarkt
This market stands as a testimony to an era when urban markets were not about bohemians getting their organic, gluten-free Sunday breakfast. It’s grimy and hot and smells like concrete, fish and chicken. But it does offer cheap vegetables and cheap kebab. And there’s always my favourite market guy, Metin, who never lets his costumers go home hungry … or sober.
5. The Augarten
This is one weird and beautiful green space in the city. While the walkways are laid out in a compulsively neat pattern around the Baroque gardens, the concrete-steel monsters of the abandoned war bunkers lurk over the grand, old public, “garden of lust”. Spend the evening eating and drinking in the Bunkerei, Augarten’s idyllic garden bar/restaurant set in a restored WW2 war bunker.
Augarten opening hours:
Summer: 6:30am–9pm (until 7/26), 6:30am–8pm (from 7/27 to 9/13)
Winter: Find park opening times, here.
We recommend: Joining in on a free outdoor yoga class hosted in the gardens, every Friday and Sunday in summer, from 3pm–4pm.
6. Wallensteinplatz
This is the red-paved, multicultural heart of the Brigittenau Grätzel. It’s a great spot to sit down and think about life’s great questions, like which nearby restaurant you should go to grab a bite to eat: Vindobona, Diwan or Hacienda Ephemer.
7. The Donaukanal
Everyone knows it’s one the best places to hang out with friends on a summer’s evening before a wild night out – if it weren’t for the self-destructive fun the Donaukanal inspires, I would have saved a whole lot of money not having lost those wallets and phones.
It also plays as the brilliant setting for an early morning/late night run. All great kingdoms were built on rivers, and the kingdom of Brigittenau has the Donaukanal.
8. Möbelbörse
The idea is simple and smart – if you want to get rid of your old furniture, take a photo and send it to the people at Möbelbörse. If they can use it, they’ll buy it off you, restore it and then resell it in their store. Meanwhile, if you like the idea of buying funky restored furniture, their prices are very reasonable.
Where: Greiseneckerstraße 5, 1200
9. Bäckerei Prindl
A 24/7 bakery! It’s hardly surprising that at 3am you’ll always find some stoned guy awkwardly trying to slur out some words, and express his desire for a Topfengolatsche (a danish filled with curd) to the lady behind the counter. These Topfengolatschen are heavenly (and even more so, stoned). Prindl also has a wine shelf, where you can find some decent bottles for supermarket prices.
Where: Jägerstraße 2, 1200
10. Bäckerei Sesam
The young baker Ali knows his trade. While he produces Turkish and Austrian classics, I would strongly recommend his simit (a circular bread covered with sesame seeds). I’d also suggest you pick up one of the bureks, too.
We recommend: Every Saturday and Sunday, Ali’s mum prepares delicacies like lahmacun, a kind of Turkish pizza.
Where: Wallensteinstraße 7, 1200
11. Diwan Kebap
It’s arguably the best kebab spot in town. The bread is delicious, the salad fillings are fresh (including the extra red cabbage!) and the meat – veal roasted on a charcoal grill – tastes great. I frequent this place, even though I normally don’t care for kebab (I’m more of a Würstel kinda’ guy). There’s also some tasty vegetarian options (try the falafel or mücver).
Where: Wallensteinstraße 43, 1200
12. The Indian Shop
Disguised as a video rental, it’s actually a small supermarket with late opening hours, offering a range of mostly Indian groceries. I go there for their awesome samosas – only 1€ a piece.
Where: Klosterneuburger Straße 18, 1200
13. Imbiss Posch
It doesn’t get much more original than this. Herr Posch, the third generation to run this little imbiss since his grandfather opened it, is steering this charismatic wooden cabin, serving up a variety of traditional Austrian snack food. The Posch family maintains a game meat connection in Styria, so you’re likely to find some good venison or rabbit meat here.
We recommend: A cheap vegetable stew to take away
Where: Rauscherstraße 4, 1200
14. Vindobona
This is actually a traditional Viennese Kabarett (comedy club), offering dinner shows. It’s also a really good café/restaurant. I’ve never been to a show, but I’ve often eaten the Tagesteller (daily menu), a high quality two or three course meal for a reasonable price (7,90€/8,90€).
We recommend: Every coffee only costs 1€ before 12pm.
Where: Wallensteinplatz 6, 1200
15. Hacienda Ephemer
This place is perfect for a date. A stylish, small and very homey Mexican bar/restaurant. Hacienda is beautiful inside and out, with a charming sidewalk Schanigarten for mild cocktail-drenched evenings. Try their enmoladas (that chocolate-chili sauce!).
Happy Hour: between 5pm and 8pm cocktails only cost 4,50€
Where: Jägerstraße 28, 1200
16. Zwischenbrückenwirt
About to reopen after a complete makeover, Zwischenbrückenwirt will finally look almost as good as it tastes (although I’ll kind of miss the tiles and 70s coverings of it’s old ugly face). Here, your taste buds will be illuminated for a reasonable price by chef Günther Szigeti’s exciting approach to traditional Austrian cuisine.
Where: Treustraße 27, 1200
Opening hours
MON–FRI: 11am–3pm & 5:30pm–10pm
17. Shelter
After some 20 years in business, Shelter still offers a rock-centric cascade of live concerts, as well as a completely insane sweat soaking 90’s party every last Friday of the month. This club feels like an outpost of the classic grungy Gürtel venues, Chelsea and B72.
Where: Wallensteinplatz 8, 1200
Opening Hours: depending on the bookings, check the Shelter website for details.
18. The Beer-O-Mat
I’m not sure if I even should be telling you this, but legend has it, that somewhere on Wasnergasse, there exists a freely accessible drinks dispenser, which is churning out Schwechater and Gösser cans for 1,50€ a piece. Barely legal, but highly practical and very fucking cool (and you know … please keep the secret within a trusted circle of responsible adult friends).
19. Boulderbar
Hidden in a courtyard dominated by a Turkish supermarket is Austria’s biggest indoor climbing space. They recently doubled in size, annexing the neighbouring warehouse. The crew really puts a lot of effort into preparing the climbing routes, with at least one wall of boulders being changed weekly. And they cater to all skills levels.
Where: Hannovergasse 21, 1200
20. Gefrorenes Salon Leonardelli
This 3rd generation ice cream manufacturer in Klosterneuburger Straße has impressively stood the test of time. Their tradition, their commitment to the craft and not fearing the zeitgeist (organic ingredients, all fruity flavors are vegan) has ensured that Leonardelli will never become obsolete. Genuine and delicious ice cream.
Where: Klosterneuburger Straße 50, 1200
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