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5 places to get the best Martinigansl in Vienna

The tradition of Martinigansl originally stems from several legends involving Saint Martin von Tours – one of them tells the story that one day, a gaggle of honking geese interrupted St Martin’s sermon so he chased them out, before capturing, slaughtering and cooking them. Be sure to remember that next time you’re in church and you really need to pee.

However this tradition came to be, here are 5 places in Vienna where to have the real Martinigansl experience:

Gmoakeller – Martinigansl

MON–SAT: 11am–12am
SUN: 11am–4pm

www.gmoakeller.at

When can you get the goose?
October  – November

The Gmoakeller is one of the oldest taverns (Wirtshaus) in Vienna and they’ve been serving up Martinigansl for almost as long as they’ve been open. So, as you would expect, they know what they’re doing when it comes to ze’ goose. It is a cosy restaurant set in a cellar neighbouring the Wiener Konzerthaus and the Akademietheater. Here you’ll witness the rare sight of elegantly dressed men in tuxedos drinking beer on tap and ripping into Sacherwürstels dunked in mustard and horseradish. It’s a special place where all the great things of Viennese culture come together.

The Gmoakeller serves the Martinigansl for one of the longest periods of time amongst the Gasthäuser, from October to November. As for the traditional sides of Rotkraut and dumplings – you’ll be honking like a goose when combining all the elements on your fork. They’ve also got the goose featuring in many other dishes in the menu at this time of year, with a roasted goose liver in the mix and goose ravioli. There’s also a autumn beer that is said to go particularly well with their autumn seasonal menu.

The waiters are charming, attentive and smiling, always up for a chat and happy to offer recommendations.

Gasthaus Wild – Martinigansl

When can you get the goose?
November 3

Dressed up like an elderly gentlemen who wields a cane, wears a monocle and a felt alpine cap with a feather sticking out, Gasthaus Wild is right up there as one of the cosiest Austrian Gasthäuser. Spruced wood panelling, a beautiful bar with beer taps and wines as far as the eye can see, like we said, it’s a handsome place.

It’s Martinigansl is the real deal. They specialise in hard-to-find game meat dishes here, so it goes without saying that their Martinigansl game is golden. The accompanying Rotkraut is balanced perfectly between sweet and sour, and the dumplings are as plump as plump can be.

Gasthaus Wild is wild for wine, by the way, and has been known to many in the 3rd district as a favourite local for ages, especially since its rebirth in 2002 when it went from a bum of a Beisl (bistro-pub) to its handsome looks of today.

The period that they serve Martinigansl is short, so be quick and be sure to reserve.

Zum Reznicek – Martinigansl

Opening times Nov.–Dec:
MON–FRI: 11am–11:30pm
SAT: 6pm–11:30pm
SUN: 11:30am–3pm

https://www.reznicek.co.at/

When can you get the goose?
October 18 – December 23

Zum Reznicek is a popular spot in the 9th district with a lot of history that the owner is very proud of (which is why the interior of this restaurant has not been touched or changed since the 1950s). Sticking with this old school tradition, the restaurant celebrates Martinigansl goose season with a dedicated menu, made up of 5 different dishes this year.

The Gansl portion is generous and comes with a warm sauce, red cabbage, bacon coleslaw, 2 types of Knödel and a cooked apple slice with cranberries on top. The goose meat may not be to everyone’s taste, as it is salty and well done, and the Knödel were in need of sauce but combined with all the side dishes, you will be rubbing a full happy belly. If you do indeed still have some space left for dessert, the Kaiserschmarrn is worth going for.

According to our waiter, the geese are sourced regionally from a farm that raises them ethically.

Plus: booking in advance is recommended via +43 1 317 91 40

Wirtshaus Steirerstöckl – Martinigansl

When can you get the goose?
October 21 – December 8

To get to this magnificent serve of goose, kraut and dumplings, you have to work for it (unless you’ve got a car…or a friend with one). Located at the edge of the Pötzleinsdorfer Schloßpark, at the end of a 15-minute walk from the last bus station, sits a wooden cabin known as the Wirtshaus Steirerstöckl. And we ain’t kidding when we say, this place is the stuff of fairytales. Well, except for geese. The geese probably wouldn’t enjoy this fairytale. However, we’ve been assured that the geese that turns up on your plate have been ethically raised and regionally.

For the fans of the Martinigansl tradition, here you’ll get the full Austrian experience. And part of that experience will be the biggest and best serve of goose you’ve ever had. The sauce drizzled over the generous portion of dumplings and goose is the solo singer to this band (wait… does this metaphor work?). And the goose, well, this succulent beauty is the big band backing this solo singer up! (we’re still not sure if this metaphor works but we’re going with it).

Like all of these hyper-Austrian places, a calm charm and homeyness belongs to its interior. It particularly looks idyllic at night when the warm lights from the inside can be seen through fogged up windows from the outside, and the cabin sits against a backdrop of the dark woods.

Seriously, you may have to invest a lot of effort to get here, but it is certainly one of those Austrian experiences that make you fall in love with this country and its stubborn clinging to traditions.

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